Par 2-34 Page 2-37 top exposed surface, remove all coatings and ravel the edges to a 1-inch width. Clamp each end between suitable clamps with one clamp anchored to a support structure while a load is applied (see Table 2-1) by adding sand in a suitable container suspended a few inches above the floor. If the breaking strength is still in question, a sample should be sent to a qualified testing laboratory and breaking strength tests made in accordance with ASTM D5035.
NOTE: ASTM D1682 has been discontinued but is still referred to in some AMS. The grab test method previously listed in ASTM D1682, sections 1 through 16, has been superseded by ASTM D5034. The strip testing method (most commonly used in aircraft) previously listed in ASTM D1682, sections 17 through 21, has been superseded by ASTM D5035.
2-35. REJUVENATION OF THE DOPE FILM. If fabric loses its strength, there is nothing to do but remove it and recover the aircraft. But if the fabric is good and the dope is cracked, it may be treated with rejuvenator, a mixture of very potent solvents and plasticizers, to restore its resilience. The surface of the fabric is cleaned and the rejuvenator sprayed on in a wet coat, and the solvents soften the old finish so the plasticizers can become part of the film. When the rejuvenator dries, the surface should be sprayed with two coats of aluminum-pigmented dope, then sanded and a third coat of aluminum-pigmented dope applied, followed with the colored-dope finish. When repairing, rejuvenating, and refinishing covering materials approved under an STC, instructions in the manual furnished by the material supplier should be followed.
2-36. –2-41. [RESERVED.]
Par 2-42 Page 2-38 SECTION 4. REPAIRS TO FABRIC COVERING
2-42. GENERAL. All materials used to make repairs to fabric covering must be of a quality at least equal to the original materials. Workmanship and repair methods must be made in a manner that will return the fabric covering to its original airworthy condition.
a. Any combination of seams hand-sewn and overlapped and doped may be used to make repairs and install new fabric sections. (See paragraph 2-7.)
b. All pigmented dope coats, including aluminum-pigmented coats, should be removed to the clear dope preliminary coats before installing a new fabric section or finishing tape on the old fabric. The appropriate dope thinner (see paragraph 2-20) may be applied with a brush to soften the old dope. The softened coats can then be removed down to the clear dope coats by scraping with a dull-bladed knife while supporting the fabric from the back side. Removing the old dope by sanding is optional.
c. Avoid allowing dope to run down the back side of the fabric or drip through the wing onto the back side of the opposite surface, which will cause cosmetic damage and will show in a high gloss finish.
d. Repairing a new fabric section over two adjacent wing ribs is considered a major repair. A logbook entry and an FAA Form 337 must be processed accordingly.
e. All fabric patch edges not covered with a finishing tape should have a pinked edge or a 1/4-inch raveled edge.
f. Where the edge of a new fabric section will be located within 1 inch of a structural member to which the fabric is attached by rib lacing or other methods, the new fabric section should be extended 3 inches past the structural member. Before installing new finishing tape, duplicate the original rib lacing or other attachments without removing the original rib lacing or attachment. Removing the original finishing tape is optional.
g. When installing large sections of fabric on a wing or other components, all machine-sewn and/or overlapped and doped seams should be made in accordance with the guidelines specified in paragraphs 2-7 and 2-8.
h. When repairing a covering material other than cotton or linen, which was approved with the manufacturer’s type certificate (TC), or approved under the authority of an STC, follow the repair instructions furnished by the aircraft manufacturer or supplier of the STC-approved covering materials.
2-43. REPAIR OF TEARS AND ACCESS OPENINGS. When all the original fabric is intact, an opening may be repaired by sewing the two sides together with a curved needle as illustrated in Figures 2-13 and 2-14. The fabric edges should be pulled together uniformly with no wrinkles.
Before sewing, remove the old dope coats down to the clear dope coats a distance of 2 inches on each side of the opening. The hand-sewn thread quality should be at least equal to that specified in Table 2-2 and treated with wax (paraffin-free or beeswax) to prevent fraying, or use the proper
thread on the STC application. After sewing, apply a coat of clear dope over the cleaned area and install a 3-inch wide finishing tape, centered over the stitches.
FIGURE 2-13. REPAIR OF TEARS IN FABRIC 1/4" MIN 1/4" MAX. SPACING .5°|
START SEWING AT
THE POINT
BASEBALL STITCH
LOCK STITCHING WITH A HALF HITCH EVERY 10 STITCHES MAXIMUM.
LOCK STITCHING AT END
WITH DOUBLE HALF
HITCH KNOT
MATERIAL SHOULD BE AT
LEAST AS GOOD AS ORIGINAL Par 2-43 Page 2-39
Par 2-43 Page 2-40 FIGURE 2-14. HAND-STITCH DETAIL
a.
Finishing tapes should be well saturated with dope and smoothed out with no voids or wrinkles during installation. After drying for 1 hour at 70 ºF, additional coats of clear dope followed with pigmented dope are applied as detailed in paragraph 2-21.
b. If the opening is more than 8 inches long but less than 16 inches long in any direction, the finishing tape width should be increased to 4 inches.
c. The finishing tape width should be increased to 6 inches if the opening is more than 16 inches long in any direction, is located on a wing top surface, or the aircraft Vne speed is greater than 150 mph.
2-44. SEWN-PATCH REPAIR. Openings that cannot be repaired by closing with stitches may be repaired by sewing in a new fabric section. The edges of the fabric around the opening should
Par 2-44 Page 2-41 be trimmed straight on four sides to facilitate the installation of straight sections of finishing tape over the stitches.
a. After cutting out the damaged section and removing the coatings as detailed in paragraph 2-42, the new fabric section should be sized to allow folding both edges of the fabric back 1/2-inch to increase the stitch tear resistance. Temporarily attach the four corners in position with thread. Start with a double thread with a square knot at the end (see Figure 2-14) and continue stitching in the manner described in Figures 2-13 and 2-14. When the stitching is complete, wet the new fabric section as described in paragraph 2-21 to remove any creases. After drying, apply one coat of clear dope on the new fabric, as described in paragraph 2-21. When the first coat of dope has dried 1 hour at 70 °F, apply a 3-inch wide finishing tape, centered over the stitches. The finishing tape should be well saturated with dope and smoothed out with no voids or wrinkles. Additional coats of clear dope and pigmented dope are then applied to obtain the desired tautness and finish, as described in paragraph 2-21.
b. If the opening is more than 8 inches but less than 16 inches long in any direction, the finishing tape should be 4 inches wide.
c. The finishing tape width should be 6 inches wide if the opening is over 16 inches long in any direction, is located on a wing top surface, or the aircraft Vne speed is greater than 150 mph.
2-45. DOPED-ON PATCH REPAIR. An opening not over 8 inches in length in any direction, on an aircraft with a Vne speed less than 150 mph, may be repaired with a 2-inch overlapped and doped patch. The opening should be trimmed to eliminate any irregular edges and old pigmented dope coats removed as described in paragraph 2-42.
a. When installing a fabric patch over a small opening, the loose edge of the fabric around the opening may be secured by extending a series of small threads, from the edge across the opening, to the opposite side. After the patch is completed, the threads may be clipped and removed through an access port or left in place.
b. The fabric patch is installed by applying a coat of clear dope around the opening, then positioning the patch over the opening. Brush out any void or wrinkles while saturating only the fabric overlap area. After the first coat of clear dope around the edge has dried 1 hour at 70 ºF, wet the fabric patch to remove any creases as described in paragraph 2-21. After drying, apply additional coats of clear dope and pigmented dope over the entire patch as described in paragraph 2-21.
c. If the opening is less than 8 inches in length in any direction and the aircraft Vne speed is greater than 150 mph, a 2-inch wide finishing tape should be installed on all sides, centered on the edge of the 2-inch overlap patch.
d. If the opening is more than 8 inches but less than 16 inches in length, in any direction on an aircraft with a Vne speed less than 150 mph, it may be repaired with a doped patch, which is overlapped 1/4 of the opening maximum dimension. The maximum overlap should not exceed 4 inches.
Par 2-45 Page 2-42
e. If the opening is more than 8 inches but less than 16 inches in length in any direction, the repair is located on a wing top surface, and the aircraft Vne speed is greater than 150 mph, the patch overlap should be 4 inches and a 2-inch wide finishing tape installed on all sides, centered on the edge of the patch.
f. If the opening is more than 16 inches in length in any direction and the Vne speed is less than 150 mph, the patch overlap should be 4 inches and the finishing tape should be 4 inches in width, centered on the edge of the patch.
g. If the opening is more than 16 inches in length in any direction and the Vne speed is greater than 150 mph, the patch overlap should be 4 inches and the finishing tape should be 6 inches in width, centered on the edge of the patch.
2-46. –2-51. [RESERVED.]
Par 3-1 Page 3-1 CHAPTER 3. FIBERGLASS AND PLASTICS SECTION 1. REPAIR OF LIGHT LOAD LAMINATE STRUCTURES
3-1. GENERAL. There is a wide variation in the composition and structural application of laminates, and it is essential that these factors be given major consideration when any restoration activities are undertaken. To a similar extent, there also exist many types of laminate structure repairs that may or may not be suitable for a given condition. For this reason, it is important that the aircraft or component manufacturer’s repair data be reviewed when determining what specific type of repair is permissible and appropriate for the damage at hand.
NOTE: Review material safety data sheets for material to be used. When handling materials, prepreg fabrics, or parts with prepared surfaces, observe shelf life. Latex gloves and approved masks must be worn.
a. The materials used in the repair of laminate structures must preserve the strength, weight, aerodynamic characteristics, or electrical properties of the original part or assembly.
Preservation is best accomplished by replacing damaged material with material of identical chemical composition or a substitute approved by the manufacturer.
b. To eliminate dangerous stress concentrations, avoid abrupt changes in cross-sectional areas. When possible, for scarf joints and facings, make small patches round or oval-shaped, and round the corners of large repairs. Smooth and properly contour aerodynamic surfaces.
c. Test specimens should be prepared during the actual repair. These can then be subjected to a destructive test to establish the quality of the adhesive bond in the repaired part.
To make this determination valid, the specimens must be assembled with the same adhesive batch mixture and subjected to curing pressure, temperature, and time identical to those in the actual repair.
3-2. FIBERGLASS LAMINATE REPAIRS. The following repairs are applicable to fiberglass laminate used for nonstructural fairing, covers, cowlings, honeycomb panel facings, etc. Prior to undertaking the repair, remove any paint by using normal dry sanding methods. Bead blasting may be used but caution must be exercised not to abrade the surfaces excessively.
NOTE: Chemical paint strippers must not be used.
NOTE: These repairs are not to be used on radomes or advanced composite components, such as graphite (carbon fiber) or Kevlar.
CAUTION: Sanding fiberglass laminates gives off a fine dust that may cause skin and/or respiratory irritation unless suitable skin and respiration protection is used. Sanding also creates static charges that attract dirt or other contaminants.
a. Check for voids and delamination by tap testing. (See Chapter 5.) When the surface of a fiberglass laminated structure is scratched, pitted, or eroded; first wash with detergent and
Par 3-2 Page 3-2 water to remove all of the dirt, wax, or oxide film. Then scrub the surface with an acceptable cleaner. After the surface is thoroughly cleaned, sand it with 280-grit sandpaper, and again use an acceptable cleanser to remove any sanding residue and moisture. This is essential, as any moisture remaining on the surface will inhibit the cure of the resin. Dry the fiberglass laminate thoroughly prior to bonding repair. Mix enough resin, using the manufacturer’s instructions, to completely cover the damaged area, and apply one or two coats. Cover the resin with a peel ply to exclude all air from the resin while it is curing. After the resin has cured, remove the film and file or sand the surface to conform to the original shape of the part. Ensure that all edges of the laminate part are sealed to prevent water absorption. Then refinish it to match the rest of the structure.
b. Superficial scars, scratches, surface abrasion, or rain erosion can generally be repaired by applying one or more coats of a suitable low temperature resin, catalyzed to cure at room temperature, to the abraded surface. The number of coats required will depend upon the type of resin and the severity of the damage.
(1) Damage not exceeding the first layer or ply of fiberglass laminate can be repaired by filling with a putty consisting of a compatible room-temperature-setting resin and clean short glass fibers. Before the resin sets, apply a sheet of peel ply over the repair area and work out any bubbles and excess resin. After the resin has cured, sand off any excess and prepare the area for refinishing.
(2) Damage deep enough to seriously affect the strength of the laminate (usually more than the first ply or layer of fabric) may be repaired as illustrated in Figure 3-1. Coat the sanded area with room-temperature-setting resin and apply contoured pieces of glass fabric soaked in resin. Apply a peel ply sheet over the repair and work out any bubbles and excess resin. After the resin has cured, scrape off the excess resin and sand the surface of the repair to the original contour.
FIGURE 3-1. TYPICAL LAMINATE (FACING) REPAIR
(3) Damage that extends completely through one facing and into the core requires the replacement of the damaged core and facing. A method for accomplishing this type of repair is shown in Figure 3-2. An alternate method for repairing the facing is shown in Figure 3-3. The damaged portion is carefully trimmed out to a circular or oval shape and the core material is removed completely to the opposite facing. Exercise caution so as not to damage the opposite facing or to start delamination between the facings and the core around the damage.
FIGURE 3-2. TYPICAL CORE AND FACING REPAIR
DAMAGE TO FACING AND CORE
DAMAGED CORE FACING SCARFEL + 50T - REMOVED FOR PATCH -WET LAMINATED PATCH
• CORE REPLACED FIGURE 3-3. TYPICAL STEPPED JOINT REPAIR HOLE
HOLE TRIMMED, CORE
REMOVED, AND FACING 11-112 of 1-112" "STEP-PEELED"
WET-LAMINATED PATCH WITH / EXTRA LAYER OF THIN CLOTH
TEMPORARY TEMPORARY SHIM
BLOCK OR MOLD
COMPLETE BY STEP-PEELING AND WET-LAMINATING
OPPOSITE FACING IN A SIMILAR OPERATION Par 3-2 Page 3-3
Par 3-2 Page 3-4
c. Use replacement core stock of the same material and density as the original (or an acceptable substitute) and cut it to fit snugly in the trimmed hole. Observe the direction of the original core. When all of the pieces of replacement facing laminations are cut and soaked in resin, coat all surfaces of the hole and the scarfed area with resin. Then coat all surfaces of the core replacement with resin and insert it into the hole. After all of the pieces of resin-impregnated glass-fabric facing are in place and lined up with the original fiber-orientation, cover the entire area with a piece of peel ply and carefully work down the layers of fabric to remove any air bubbles and excess resin. Apply light pressure by means of sand bags or a vacuum bag. When the resin has cured, sand the repair to match the original contour and refinish the surface.
3-3. REPAIRING HOLES.
a. Scarf Method. If the damaged area is less than 3 inches in diameter, the damage may be removed by either sanding with a power sander or hand sanding with 180-grit sandpaper.
(1) Scarf back the edges of the hole about 50 times the thickness of the face ply.
Thoroughly clean out all of the sanding residue with a cloth wet with an acceptable cleanser.
(2) Prepare the patches by (see Figure 3-4) laying the proper weight fiberglass cloth impregnated with resin on a piece of peel ply. A weight of resin equal to the weight of the patch provides a 50-percent ratio.
Par 3-3 Page 3-5 FIGURE 3-4. PREPARING THE FIBERGLASS SANDWICH
Par 3-3 Page 3-6
(3) Make a sandwich by laying a second layer of peel ply over the patch before cutting it to the required size and shape. Sandwiching will prevent the patch from raveling when cut.
Brush a good coat of resin over the scarfed area. Remove one piece of peel ply from the first patch and lay the patch in place. Work all of the air out of the resin and remove the top peel ply.
Cut the next larger patch so it will overlap the first patch by at least 1/2 inch. Remove one piece of peel ply from this patch and center the patch over the first one. Work all of the air out of the resin. Continue laying in patches, each overlapping the one below it by at least 1/2 inch, until you have the required number of layers (see Figures 3-5 and 3-6) plus an extra ply to restore original strength to the repaired area.