Par 2-43 Page 2-40 FIGURE 2-14. HAND-STITCH DETAIL
a.
Finishing tapes should be well saturated with dope and smoothed out with no voids or wrinkles during installation. After drying for 1 hour at 70 ºF, additional coats of clear dope followed with pigmented dope are applied as detailed in paragraph 2-21.
b. If the opening is more than 8 inches long but less than 16 inches long in any direction, the finishing tape width should be increased to 4 inches.
c. The finishing tape width should be increased to 6 inches if the opening is more than 16 inches long in any direction, is located on a wing top surface, or the aircraft Vne speed is greater than 150 mph.
2-44. SEWN-PATCH REPAIR. Openings that cannot be repaired by closing with stitches may be repaired by sewing in a new fabric section. The edges of the fabric around the opening should
Par 2-44 Page 2-41 be trimmed straight on four sides to facilitate the installation of straight sections of finishing tape over the stitches.
a. After cutting out the damaged section and removing the coatings as detailed in paragraph 2-42, the new fabric section should be sized to allow folding both edges of the fabric back 1/2-inch to increase the stitch tear resistance. Temporarily attach the four corners in position with thread. Start with a double thread with a square knot at the end (see Figure 2-14) and continue stitching in the manner described in Figures 2-13 and 2-14. When the stitching is complete, wet the new fabric section as described in paragraph 2-21 to remove any creases. After drying, apply one coat of clear dope on the new fabric, as described in paragraph 2-21. When the first coat of dope has dried 1 hour at 70 °F, apply a 3-inch wide finishing tape, centered over the stitches. The finishing tape should be well saturated with dope and smoothed out with no voids or wrinkles. Additional coats of clear dope and pigmented dope are then applied to obtain the desired tautness and finish, as described in paragraph 2-21.
b. If the opening is more than 8 inches but less than 16 inches long in any direction, the finishing tape should be 4 inches wide.
c. The finishing tape width should be 6 inches wide if the opening is over 16 inches long in any direction, is located on a wing top surface, or the aircraft Vne speed is greater than 150 mph.
2-45. DOPED-ON PATCH REPAIR. An opening not over 8 inches in length in any direction, on an aircraft with a Vne speed less than 150 mph, may be repaired with a 2-inch overlapped and doped patch. The opening should be trimmed to eliminate any irregular edges and old pigmented dope coats removed as described in paragraph 2-42.
a. When installing a fabric patch over a small opening, the loose edge of the fabric around the opening may be secured by extending a series of small threads, from the edge across the opening, to the opposite side. After the patch is completed, the threads may be clipped and removed through an access port or left in place.
b. The fabric patch is installed by applying a coat of clear dope around the opening, then positioning the patch over the opening. Brush out any void or wrinkles while saturating only the fabric overlap area. After the first coat of clear dope around the edge has dried 1 hour at 70 ºF, wet the fabric patch to remove any creases as described in paragraph 2-21. After drying, apply additional coats of clear dope and pigmented dope over the entire patch as described in paragraph 2-21.
c. If the opening is less than 8 inches in length in any direction and the aircraft Vne speed is greater than 150 mph, a 2-inch wide finishing tape should be installed on all sides, centered on the edge of the 2-inch overlap patch.
d. If the opening is more than 8 inches but less than 16 inches in length, in any direction on an aircraft with a Vne speed less than 150 mph, it may be repaired with a doped patch, which is overlapped 1/4 of the opening maximum dimension. The maximum overlap should not exceed 4 inches.
Par 2-45 Page 2-42
e. If the opening is more than 8 inches but less than 16 inches in length in any direction, the repair is located on a wing top surface, and the aircraft Vne speed is greater than 150 mph, the patch overlap should be 4 inches and a 2-inch wide finishing tape installed on all sides, centered on the edge of the patch.
f. If the opening is more than 16 inches in length in any direction and the Vne speed is less than 150 mph, the patch overlap should be 4 inches and the finishing tape should be 4 inches in width, centered on the edge of the patch.
g. If the opening is more than 16 inches in length in any direction and the Vne speed is greater than 150 mph, the patch overlap should be 4 inches and the finishing tape should be 6 inches in width, centered on the edge of the patch.
2-46. –2-51. [RESERVED.]
Par 3-1 Page 3-1 CHAPTER 3. FIBERGLASS AND PLASTICS SECTION 1. REPAIR OF LIGHT LOAD LAMINATE STRUCTURES
3-1. GENERAL. There is a wide variation in the composition and structural application of laminates, and it is essential that these factors be given major consideration when any restoration activities are undertaken. To a similar extent, there also exist many types of laminate structure repairs that may or may not be suitable for a given condition. For this reason, it is important that the aircraft or component manufacturer’s repair data be reviewed when determining what specific type of repair is permissible and appropriate for the damage at hand.
NOTE: Review material safety data sheets for material to be used. When handling materials, prepreg fabrics, or parts with prepared surfaces, observe shelf life. Latex gloves and approved masks must be worn.
a. The materials used in the repair of laminate structures must preserve the strength, weight, aerodynamic characteristics, or electrical properties of the original part or assembly.
Preservation is best accomplished by replacing damaged material with material of identical chemical composition or a substitute approved by the manufacturer.
b. To eliminate dangerous stress concentrations, avoid abrupt changes in cross-sectional areas. When possible, for scarf joints and facings, make small patches round or oval-shaped, and round the corners of large repairs. Smooth and properly contour aerodynamic surfaces.
c. Test specimens should be prepared during the actual repair. These can then be subjected to a destructive test to establish the quality of the adhesive bond in the repaired part.
To make this determination valid, the specimens must be assembled with the same adhesive batch mixture and subjected to curing pressure, temperature, and time identical to those in the actual repair.
3-2. FIBERGLASS LAMINATE REPAIRS. The following repairs are applicable to fiberglass laminate used for nonstructural fairing, covers, cowlings, honeycomb panel facings, etc. Prior to undertaking the repair, remove any paint by using normal dry sanding methods. Bead blasting may be used but caution must be exercised not to abrade the surfaces excessively.
NOTE: Chemical paint strippers must not be used.
NOTE: These repairs are not to be used on radomes or advanced composite components, such as graphite (carbon fiber) or Kevlar.
CAUTION: Sanding fiberglass laminates gives off a fine dust that may cause skin and/or respiratory irritation unless suitable skin and respiration protection is used. Sanding also creates static charges that attract dirt or other contaminants.
a. Check for voids and delamination by tap testing. (See Chapter 5.) When the surface of a fiberglass laminated structure is scratched, pitted, or eroded; first wash with detergent and
Par 3-2 Page 3-2 water to remove all of the dirt, wax, or oxide film. Then scrub the surface with an acceptable cleaner. After the surface is thoroughly cleaned, sand it with 280-grit sandpaper, and again use an acceptable cleanser to remove any sanding residue and moisture. This is essential, as any moisture remaining on the surface will inhibit the cure of the resin. Dry the fiberglass laminate thoroughly prior to bonding repair. Mix enough resin, using the manufacturer’s instructions, to completely cover the damaged area, and apply one or two coats. Cover the resin with a peel ply to exclude all air from the resin while it is curing. After the resin has cured, remove the film and file or sand the surface to conform to the original shape of the part. Ensure that all edges of the laminate part are sealed to prevent water absorption. Then refinish it to match the rest of the structure.
b. Superficial scars, scratches, surface abrasion, or rain erosion can generally be repaired by applying one or more coats of a suitable low temperature resin, catalyzed to cure at room temperature, to the abraded surface. The number of coats required will depend upon the type of resin and the severity of the damage.
(1) Damage not exceeding the first layer or ply of fiberglass laminate can be repaired by filling with a putty consisting of a compatible room-temperature-setting resin and clean short glass fibers. Before the resin sets, apply a sheet of peel ply over the repair area and work out any bubbles and excess resin. After the resin has cured, sand off any excess and prepare the area for refinishing.
(2) Damage deep enough to seriously affect the strength of the laminate (usually more than the first ply or layer of fabric) may be repaired as illustrated in Figure 3-1. Coat the sanded area with room-temperature-setting resin and apply contoured pieces of glass fabric soaked in resin. Apply a peel ply sheet over the repair and work out any bubbles and excess resin. After the resin has cured, scrape off the excess resin and sand the surface of the repair to the original contour.
FIGURE 3-1. TYPICAL LAMINATE (FACING) REPAIR
(3) Damage that extends completely through one facing and into the core requires the replacement of the damaged core and facing. A method for accomplishing this type of repair is shown in Figure 3-2. An alternate method for repairing the facing is shown in Figure 3-3. The damaged portion is carefully trimmed out to a circular or oval shape and the core material is removed completely to the opposite facing. Exercise caution so as not to damage the opposite facing or to start delamination between the facings and the core around the damage.
FIGURE 3-2. TYPICAL CORE AND FACING REPAIR
DAMAGE TO FACING AND CORE
DAMAGED CORE FACING SCARFEL + 50T - REMOVED FOR PATCH -WET LAMINATED PATCH
• CORE REPLACED FIGURE 3-3. TYPICAL STEPPED JOINT REPAIR HOLE
HOLE TRIMMED, CORE
REMOVED, AND FACING 11-112 of 1-112" "STEP-PEELED"
WET-LAMINATED PATCH WITH / EXTRA LAYER OF THIN CLOTH
TEMPORARY TEMPORARY SHIM
BLOCK OR MOLD
COMPLETE BY STEP-PEELING AND WET-LAMINATING
OPPOSITE FACING IN A SIMILAR OPERATION Par 3-2 Page 3-3
Par 3-2 Page 3-4
c. Use replacement core stock of the same material and density as the original (or an acceptable substitute) and cut it to fit snugly in the trimmed hole. Observe the direction of the original core. When all of the pieces of replacement facing laminations are cut and soaked in resin, coat all surfaces of the hole and the scarfed area with resin. Then coat all surfaces of the core replacement with resin and insert it into the hole. After all of the pieces of resin-impregnated glass-fabric facing are in place and lined up with the original fiber-orientation, cover the entire area with a piece of peel ply and carefully work down the layers of fabric to remove any air bubbles and excess resin. Apply light pressure by means of sand bags or a vacuum bag. When the resin has cured, sand the repair to match the original contour and refinish the surface.
3-3. REPAIRING HOLES.
a. Scarf Method. If the damaged area is less than 3 inches in diameter, the damage may be removed by either sanding with a power sander or hand sanding with 180-grit sandpaper.
(1) Scarf back the edges of the hole about 50 times the thickness of the face ply.
Thoroughly clean out all of the sanding residue with a cloth wet with an acceptable cleanser.
(2) Prepare the patches by (see Figure 3-4) laying the proper weight fiberglass cloth impregnated with resin on a piece of peel ply. A weight of resin equal to the weight of the patch provides a 50-percent ratio.
Par 3-3 Page 3-5 FIGURE 3-4. PREPARING THE FIBERGLASS SANDWICH
Par 3-3 Page 3-6
(3) Make a sandwich by laying a second layer of peel ply over the patch before cutting it to the required size and shape. Sandwiching will prevent the patch from raveling when cut.
Brush a good coat of resin over the scarfed area. Remove one piece of peel ply from the first patch and lay the patch in place. Work all of the air out of the resin and remove the top peel ply.
Cut the next larger patch so it will overlap the first patch by at least 1/2 inch. Remove one piece of peel ply from this patch and center the patch over the first one. Work all of the air out of the resin. Continue laying in patches, each overlapping the one below it by at least 1/2 inch, until you have the required number of layers (see Figures 3-5 and 3-6) plus an extra ply to restore original strength to the repaired area.
FIGURE 3-5. SCARFED REPAIR TO A NONSTRUCTURAL LAMINATED
FIBERGLASS COMPONENT
Par 3-3 Page 3-7 FIGURE 3-6. SYMMETRICAL LAYUP SAME AS ORIGINAL NUMBER OF PLIES,
PLUS ONE EXTRA PLY (
4) Cover the entire repair with peel ply and carefully work out all of the air bubbles from the resin. Apply pressure over the repair with tape or sandbags and allow it to cure. After the repair has cured, remove the excess resin by filing or sanding the surface to the contour of the original part. Smooth the surface with fine sandpaper and refinish it to match the original part.
(5) An alternate layup method that works equally well is to place the larger patch over the scarfed area first, and then each subsequent smaller patch over this. Both types of repair are finished in exactly the same way.
(6) The scarfed joint method (see Figure 3-7) is normally used on small punctures up to 3 or 4 inches in maximum dimension and in facings that are made of thin fabric that is difficult to peel.
Par 3-3 Page 3-8 FIGURE 3-7. TYPICAL SCARF JOINT REPAIR
b. St ep-Joint Method. The scarf method of repairing a laminated fiberglass face sheet of a honeycomb structure is the easiest method to use. In this type of repair, the damage is outlined with a compass. If a square or rectangular repair is more appropriate then the damage is outlined using a straight-edge and a compass to round out the corners.
(1) The configuration of the repair should be that which will remove the least amount of sound material. Extend the cleaned-out area for a distance equal to the number of plies to be removed, less 1 inch. For example, if you must remove three plies, extend the repair for 2 inches beyond the cleaned-out area. Each layer should be 1 inch beyond the layer below. Use a sharp
Par 3-3 Page 3-9 knife or other type of cutter to cut through the top layer, being careful not to damage the underneath layer. Use several passes with the knife rather than one deep cut. (See Figure 3-8.)
FIGURE 3-8. CAREFULLY CUT THROUGH EACH LAYER OF FIBERGLASS
CLOTH AND REMOVE IT FROM THE DAMAGED AREA (
2) Begin with one corner of the patch and carefully pry it loose and peel it up until all of the layer is removed. Next, mark the exposed layer 1/2 inch inside the opening and carefully cut and remove it. Continue until you have removed all of the damaged or delaminated layers.
(3) Lightly sand, then scrub the entire area with an acceptable cleanser. Prepare the patches exactly as you did for the scarf method, cutting each layer to exactly the size of the material removed. Brush in a coat of resin, lay in the patch of the smallest size, and carefully work out all of the air bubbles from the resin. Now, lay in the next larger size patch to lock the first layer of fiberglass cloth into place. Repeat the process until the damage area is filled.
(4) Butt the top layer of cloth to the opening in the face ply and cover the entire repair with peel ply. Carefully work all of the air bubbles out of the resin and put pressure on the repair with either sandbags, or another appropriate method, such as vacuum bagging. (See Figure 3-9.)
After the top repair has hardened, repeat the process on the bottom.