Par 3-21 Page 3-22
c. Small forming jobs, such as landing light covers, may be heated in a kitchen baking oven. Infrared heat lamps may be used if they are arranged on 7-or 8-inch centers and enough of them are used in a bank to heat the sheet evenly. Place the lamps about 18 inches from the material.
d. Never use hot water or steam directly on the plastic to heat it, because this will likely cause the acrylic to become milky or cloudy.
3-22. FORMS. Heated acrylic plastic will mold with almost no pressure, so the forms used can be of very simple construction. Forms made of pressed wood, plywood, or plaster are adequate to form simple curves, but reinforced plastic or plaster may be needed to shape complex or compound curves.
a. Since hot plastic conforms to any waviness or unevenness, the form used must be completely smooth. To ensure this, sand the form and cover it with soft cloth such as outing flannel or billiard felt.
b. The mold should be large enough to extend beyond the trim line of the part, and provisions should be made for holding the hot plastic snug against the mold as it cools.
c. A mold can be made for a complex part by using the damaged part itself. If the part is broken, tape the pieces together, wax or grease the inside so the plaster will not stick to it, and support the entire part in sand. Fill the part with plaster and allow it to harden, and then remove it from the mold. Smooth out any roughness and cover it with soft cloth. It is now ready to use to form the new part.
3-23. FORMING METHODS. (See Table 3-1.)
a. Simple Curve Forming. Heat the plastic material to the recommended temperature, remove it from the heat source, and carefully drape it over the prepared form. Carefully press the hot plastic to the form and either hold or clamp the sheet in place until it cools. This process may take from ten minutes to one-half hour. Do not force-cool it.
b. Compound-Curve Forming. This type of forming is normally used for such parts as canopies or complex wingtip light covers, and it requires a great deal of specialized equipment.
There are four commonly used methods, each having its advantages and disadvantages.
c. Stretch Forming. Preheated acrylic sheets are stretched mechanically over the form in much the same way as is done with the simple curved piece. Special care must be taken to preserve uniform thickness of the material, since some parts will have to stretch more than others.
d. Male And Female Die Forming. This requires expensive matching male and female dies. The heated plastic sheet is placed between the dies which are then mated. When the plastic cools, the dies are opened.
e. Vacuum-Forming Without Forms. Many aircraft canopies are formed by this method.
In this process a clamp with an opening of the desired shape is placed over a vacuum box and the
Par 3-23 Page 3-23 heated sheet of plastic is clamped in place. When the air in the box is evacuated, the outside air pressure will force the hot plastic through the opening and form the concave canopy. It is the surface tension of the plastic that shapes the canopy.
f. Vacuum-Forming With A Female Form. If the shape needed is other than that which would be formed by surface tension, a female mold, or form must be used. It is placed below the plastic sheet and the vacuum pump is connected. When air from the form is evacuated, the outside air pressure will force the hot plastic sheet into the mold and fill it.
g. Sawing and Drilling.
(1) Several types of saws can be used with transparent plastics, however circular saws are the best for straight cuts. The blades should be hollow-ground or have some set to prevent binding. After the teeth are set, they should be side-dressed to produce a smooth edge on the cut.
Band saws are recommended for cutting flat acrylic sheets when the cuts must be curved or where the sheet is cut to a rough dimension to be trimmed later. Close control of size and shape may be obtained by band sawing a piece to within 1/16 inch of the desired size, as marked by a scribed line on the plastic, and then sanding it to the correct size with a drum or belt sander.
TABLE 3-1. TYPICAL TEMPERATURES FOR FORMING ACRYLIC SHEETS Thickness of sheet (in.)
0.125 0.250 0.125 0.250 Type of forming Regular acrylic plastic.
MIL-P-6886 Heat-resistant acrylic plastic, MIL-P-5425, and craze-resistant acrylic plastic, MIL-PRF-8184 ºC ºF ºC ºF ºC ºF ºC ºF Simple curve 113 235 110 230 135 275 135 275 Stretch forming (dry mold cover) 140 284 135 275 160 320 150 302 Male and female forming 140 284 135 275 180 356 170 338 Vacuum forming without form 140 284 135 275 150 302 145 293 Vacuum forming with female form 145 293 140 284 180 356 170 338
(2) Unlike soft metal, acrylic plastic is a very poor conductor of heat. Make provisions for removing the heat when drilling. Deep holes need cooling, and a water-soluble cutting oil is a satisfactory coolant since it has no tendency to attack the plastic.
(a) The drill used on acrylics must be carefully ground and free from nicks and burrs that would affect the surface finish. Grind the drill with a greater included angle than
Par 3-23 Page 3-24 would be used for soft metal. The rake angle should be zero in order to scrape, not cut.
(See Figure 3-18.)
FIGURE 3-18. DRILL HAVING AN INCLUDED ANGLE OF APPROXIMATELY 150º,
USED TO DRILL ACRYLIC PLASTICS (
b) The patented Unibit (see Figure 3-19) is good for drilling small holes in aircraft windshields and windows. It can cut holes from 1/8- to 1/2-inch in 1/32-inch increments and produces good smooth holes with no stress cracks around their edges.
FIGURE 3-19. UNIBIT DRILL FOR DRILLING ACRYLIC PLASTICS
h. P olymerizable Cements. Polymerizable cements are those in which a catalyst is added to an already thick monomerpolymer syrup to promote rapid hardening. Cement PS-30 and Weld-On 40 are polymerizable cements of this type. They are suitable for cementing all types of Plexiglas acrylic cast sheet and parts molded from Plexiglas molding pellets. At room temperature, the cements harden (polymerize) in the container in about 45 minutes after mixing the components. They will harden more rapidly at higher temperatures. The cement joints are usually hard enough for handling within 4 hours after assembly. The joints may be machined within 4 hours after assembly, but it is better to wait 24 hours.
(1) PS-30 and Weld-On 40 joints retain excellent appearance and color stability after outdoor exposure. These cements produce clear, transparent joints and should be used when the color and appearance of the joints are important.
Par 3-23 Page 3-25
(2) PS-30 and Weld-On 40 should be used at temperatures no lower than 65 ºF. If cementing is done in a room cooler than 65 ºF, it will require a longer time to harden and the joint strength will be reduced.
(a) The cement should be prepared with the correct proportions of components as given in the manufacturer’s instructions and thoroughly mixed, making sure neither the mixing container nor mixing paddle adds color or affects the hardening of the cement. Clean glass or polyethylene mixing containers are preferred.
(b) Because of their short pot life (approximately 45 minutes) Cement PS-30 and Weld-On 40 must be used quickly once the components are mixed. Time consumed in preparation shortens the effective working time, making it necessary to have everything ready to be cemented before the cements are mixed. For better handling pour cement within 20 minutes of mixing.
(c) For maximum joint strength, the final cement joint should be free of bubbles. It will usually be sufficient to allow the mixed cement to stand for 10 minutes before cementing to allow bubbles to rise to the surface. (See Figure 3-20.)
FIGURE 3-20. APPLYING PRESSURE TO ACRYLIC PLASTICS
Par 3-23 Page 3-26
(d) The gap joint technique can only be used with colorless Plexiglas acrylic or in cases in which joints will be hidden. If inconspicuous joints in colored Plexiglas acrylic are needed, the parts must be fitted closely, using closed V groove, butt, or arc joints.
(3) Cement forms or dams may be made with masking tape as long as the adhesive surface does not contact the cement. This is easily done with a strip of cellophane tape placed over the masking tape adhesive. The tape must be chosen carefully. The adhesive on ordinary cellophane tape prevents the cure of PS-30 and Weld-On 40. Before actual fabrication of parts, sample joints should be tried to ensure that the tape system used will not harm the cement. Since it is important for all of the cement to remain in the gap, only contact pressure should be used.
(4) Bubbles will tend to float to the top of the cement bead in a gap joint after the cement is poured. These cause no problem if the bead is machined off. A small wire (not copper), or similar objects may be used to lift some bubbles out of the joint; however, the cement joint should be disturbed as little as possible.
(5) Polymerizable cements shrink as the cement hardens. Therefore, the freshly poured cement bead should be left above the surfaces being cemented to compensate for the shrinkage.
If it is necessary for appearances, the bead may be machined off after the cement has set.
3-24. REPAIR OF PLASTICS. Replace, rather than repair extensively damaged transparent plastic, whenever possible, since even a carefully patched part is not the equal of a new section, either optically or structurally. At the first sign of crack development, drill a small hole with a # 30 or a 1/8-inch drill at the extreme ends of the cracks as shown in Figure 3-21. This serves to localize the cracks and to prevent further splitting by distributing the strain over a large area. If the cracks are small, stopping them with drilled holes will usually suffice until replacement or more permanent repairs can be made. The following repairs are permissible; however, they are not to be located in the pilot’s line of vision during landing or normal flight.
FIGURE 3-21. STOP-DRILLING CRACKS
a.
Surface Patch. If a surface patch is to be installed, trim away the damaged area and round all corners. Cut a piece of plastic of sufficient size to cover the damaged area and extend at
Par 3-24 Page 3-27 least 3/4 inch on each side of the crack or hole. Bevel the edges as shown in Figure 3-22. If the section to be repaired is curved, shape the patch to the same contour by heating it in an oil bath at a temperature of 248 to 302 ºF, or it may be heated on a hot-plate until soft. Boiling water should not be used for heating. Coat the patch evenly with plastic solvent adhesive and immediately place it over the hole. Maintain a uniform pressure of 5 to 10 pounds per square inch (psi) on the patch for a minimum of 3 hours. Allow the patch to dry 24 to 36 hours before sanding or polishing.
FIGURE 3-22. SURFACE PATCHES
b. Plug Patch. When using inserted patches to repair holes in plastic structures, trim the holes to a perfect circle or oval and bevel the edges slightly. Make the patch slightly thicker than the material being repaired and similarly bevel its edges. Install patches in accordance with Figure 3-23. Heat the plug until soft and press it into the hole without cement and allow to cool to make a perfect fit. Remove the plug, coat the edges with adhesive, and then reinsert in the hole. Maintain a firm light pressure until the cement has set. Sand or file the edges level with the surface, then buff and polish.
FIGURE 3-23. PLUG PATCH REPAIR
PATCHES PATCH SHOULD BE
THICKER
PATCH AND HOLE PATCH TAPERED
SHOULD BE TRIMMED ON SHARPER WITH TAPERED EDGES. ANGLE THAN MATERIAL.
HEAT EDGES OF DURING CEMENTING-
PATCH UNTIL PRESSURE NEED
SOFT, AND BE APPLIED
FORCE IT INTO ONLY ON TOP HOLE. HOLD SURFACE. TAPER
IT IN PLACE ASSURES EQUAL
UNTIL COOL PRESSURE ON ALL AND HARD TO SIDES.
ASSURE PERFECT FIT.
THEN REMOVE
PATCH FOR AFTER CEMENT HAS
CEMENTING HARDENED - SAND OR BATH. FILE EDGES LEVEL WITH SURFACE.
Par 3-24 Page 3-28
Par 3-25 Page 3-29
3-25. CLEANING AND POLISHING TRANSPARENT PLASTIC. Plastics have many advantages over glass for aircraft use, but they lack the surface hardness of glass and care must be exercised while servicing the aircraft to avoid scratching or otherwise damaging the surface.
a. Clean the plastic by washing it with plenty of water and mild soap, using a clean, soft, grit-free cloth, sponge, or bare hands. Do not use gasoline, alcohol, benzene, acetone, carbon tetrachloride, fire extinguisher or deicing fluids, lacquer thinners, or window cleaning sprays.
These will soften the plastic and cause crazing.
b. Plastics should not be rubbed with a dry cloth since this is likely to cause scratches, and also to build up an electrostatic charge that attracts dust particles to the surface. If after removing dirt and grease, no great amount of scratching is visible, finish the plastic with a good grade of commercial wax. Apply the wax in a thin even coat and bring to a high polish by rubbing lightly with a soft cloth.
c. Do not attempt hand polishing or buffing until the surface is clean. A soft, open-type cotton or flannel buffing wheel is suggested. Minor scratches may be removed by vigorously rubbing the affected area by hand, using a soft clean cloth dampened with a mixture of turpentine and chalk, or by applying automobile cleanser with a damp cloth. Remove the cleaner and polish with a soft, dry cloth. Acrylic and cellulose acetate plastics are thermoplastic. Friction created by buffing or polishing too long in one spot can generate sufficient heat to soften the surface. This condition will produce visual distortion and should be avoided.
3-26. REPLACEMENT PANELS. Use material equivalent to that originally used by the manufacturer of the aircraft for replacement panels. There are many types of transparent plastics on the market. Their properties vary greatly, particularly in regard to expansion characteristics, brittleness under low temperatures, resistance to discoloration when exposed to sunlight, surface checking, etc. Information on these properties is in MIL-HDBK-17 (current revision), Plastics for Flight Vehicles, Part II—Transparent Glazing Materials, available from the Government Publishing Office (GPO). These properties are considered by aircraft manufacturers in selecting materials to be used in their designs and the use of substitutes having different characteristics may result in subsequent difficulties.
3-27. INSTALLATION PROCEDURES. When installing a replacement panel, use the same mounting method employed by the manufacturer of the aircraft. While the actual installation will vary from one type of aircraft to another, consider the following major principles when installing any replacement panel.
a. Never force a plastic panel out of shape to make it fit a frame. If a replacement panel does not fit easily into the mounting, obtain a new replacement or heat the whole panel and reform. When possible, cut and fit a new panel at ordinary room temperature.
b. In clamping or bolting plastic panels into their mountings, do not place the plastic under excessive compressive stress. It is easy to develop more than 1,000 psi on the plastic by over-torquing a nut and bolt. Tighten each nut to a firm fit, then back the nut off one full turn (until they are snug and can still be rotated with the fingers).
Par 3-27 Page 3-30
c. In bolted installations, use spacers, collars, shoulders, or stop-nuts to prevent tightening the bolt excessively. Whenever such devices are used by the aircraft manufacturer, retain them in the replacement installation. It is important that the original number of bolts, complete with washers, spacers, etc., be used. When rivets are used, provide adequate spacers or other satisfactory means to prevent excessive tightening of the frame to the plastic.
d. Mount plastic panels between rubber, cork, or other gasket material to make the installation waterproof, to reduce vibration, and to help to distribute compressive stresses on the plastic.
e. Plastics expand and contract considerably more than the metal channels in which they are mounted. Mount windshield panels to a sufficient depth in the channel to prevent it from falling out when the panel contracts at low temperatures or deforms under load. When the manufacturer’s original design permits, mount panels to a minimum depth of 1-1/8 inch, and with a clearance of 1/8 inch between the plastic and bottom of the channel.
f. In installations involving bolts or rivets, make the holes through the plastic oversize by 1/8-inch diameter and center so that the plastic will not bind or crack at the edge of the holes.
The use of slotted holes is also recommended.
3-28. –3-39. [RESERVED.]
Par 3-40 Page 3-31 SECTION 4. WINDSHIELDS, ENCLOSURES, AND WINDOWS
3-40. GENERAL. These repairs are applicable to plastic windshields, enclosures, and windows in nonpressurized airplanes. For pressurized airplanes, replace or repair plastic elements in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendation. When windshields and side windows made of acrylic plastics are damaged, they are usually replaced unless the damage is minor and a repair would not be in the line of vision. Repairs usually require a great deal of labor.
Replacement parts are readily available, so replacement is normally more economical than repair.
a. Minor Repairs. There are times, however, when a windshield may be cracked and safety is not impaired. In that case, repairs can be made by stop-drilling the ends of the crack with a # 30 drill (1/8 inch) to prevent the concentration of stresses causing the crack to continue.
Drill a series of number 40 holes a half-inch from the edge of the crack about a half-inch apart, and lace through these holes with brass safety wire (see Figure 3-24) and seal with clear silicone to waterproof.
b. Temporary Repairs. One way to make a temporary repair is to stop-drill the ends of the crack, and then drill number 27 holes every inch or so in the crack. Use AN515-6 screws and AN365-632 nuts with AN960-6 washers on both sides of the plastic. This will hold the crack together and prevent further breakage until the windshield can be properly repaired or replaced.
(See Figure 3-24.)
FIGURE 3-24. TEMPORARY REPAIRS TO CRACKED WINDSHIELDS OR
WINDOWS
c. P ermanent Repairs. Windshields or side windows with small cracks that affect only the appearance rather than the airworthiness of a sheet may be repaired by first stop-drilling the ends of the crack with a # 30 or a 1/8-inch drill. Then use a hypodermic syringe and needle to fill the crack with polymerizable cement such as PS-30 or Weld-On 40, and allow capillary action to fill the crack completely. Soak the end of a 1/8-inch acrylic rod in cement to form a cushion and insert it in the stop-drilled hole. Allow the repair to dry for about 30 minutes, and then trim the rod off flush with the sheet.
Par 3-40 Page 3-32
d. Polishing and Finishing. Scratches and repair marks, within certain limitations, can be removed from acrylic plastic. No sanding that could adversely affect the plastic’s optical properties and distort the pilot’s vision should be done on any portion of a windshield.
(1) If there are scratches or repair marks in an area that can be sanded, they may be removed by first sanding the area. Use 320- or 400-grit abrasive paper that is wrapped around a felt or rubber pad.
(2) Use circular rubbing motions, light pressure, and a mild liquid soap solution as a lubricant. After the sanding is complete, rinse the surface thoroughly with running water. Then, using a 500-grit paper, continue to sand lightly. Keep moving to higher grit paper and sand and rinse until all of the sanding or repair marks have been removed.
(3) After using the finest abrasive paper, use rubbing compound and buff in a circular motion to remove all traces of the sanding.
e. Cleaning. Acrylic windshields and windows may be cleaned by washing them with mild soap and running water. Rub the surface with your bare hands in a stream of water. Follow with the same procedure but with soap and water. After the soap and dirt have been flushed away, dry the surface with a soft, clean cloth or tissue and polish it with a windshield cleaner especially approved for use on aircraft transparent plastics. These cleaners may be purchased through aircraft supply houses.
f. Waxing. A thin coating of wax will fill any minute scratches that may be present and will cause rain to form droplets that are easily blown away by the wind.
3-41. PROTECTION. Acrylic windshields are often called “lifetime” windshields, to distinguish them from those made of the much shorter-lived acetate material. However, even acrylic must be protected from the ravages of the elements.
a. When an aircraft is parked in direct sunlight, the windshield will absorb heat and will actually become hotter than either the inside of the aircraft or the outside air. The sun will cause the inside of a closed aircraft to become extremely hot, and this heat is also absorbed by the plastic windshield.
b. To protect against this damage, it is wise to keep the aircraft in a hangar. If this is not possible, some type of shade should be provided to keep the sun from coming in direct contact with the windshield. Some aircraft owners use a close-fitting, opaque, reflective cover over the windshield. In many cases, this has done more harm than good. This cover may absorb moisture from the air and give off harmful vapors, and if it touches the surface of the plastic, it can cause crazing or minute cracks to form in the windshield. Another hazard in using such a cover is that sand can blow up under the cover and scratch the plastic.
3-42. WINDSHIELD INSTALLATION. Aircraft windshields may be purchased either from the original aircraft manufacturer or from any of several FAA-PMA sources. These windshields are formed to the exact shape required, but are slightly larger than necessary so they may be trimmed to the exact size.
Par 3-42 Page 3-33
a. After removing the damaged windshield, clean all of the sealer from the grooves and cut the new windshield to fit. New windshields are covered with either protective paper or film to prevent damage during handling or installation. Carefully peel back just enough of this covering to make the installation. The windshield must fit in its channels with about 1/8- to 1/4-inch clearance to allow for expansion and contraction. If any holes are drilled in the plastic for screws, they should be about 1/8 inch oversize.
b. Place the sealing tape around the edges of the windshield and install the windshield in its frame. Screws that go through the windshield should be tightened down snug and then backed out a full turn, so the plastic can shift as it expands and contracts.
c. Do not remove the protective paper or film until the windshield is installed and all of the securing screws are in place.
3-43. –3-47. [RESERVED.]